Irancy Wine: Why This Hidden Burgundy Gem Is My New Obsession

Let me tell you about a place. Imagine a storybook village in Burgundy, just a stone’s throw from the famous vineyards of Chablis, where the red wines hold a fascinating secret and cherry trees dot the landscape. That place is Irancy. For a long time, it flew under the radar, but I feel like it’s finally stepping into the spotlight, and I’m here for it. This is where Pinot Noir is king, but it shares the throne with a mysterious and ancient partner: the César grape. It’s a tiny appellation, officially recognized only in 1998, with just 290 residents and a dozen or so families who are passionately rewriting its wine story.

What really gets me about Irancy is its sense of history. The winemaking roots here are so deep they make you feel incredibly small. I was blown away to learn that the César grape was being cultivated here 2,000 years ago. And you have families like the Charriats who have been making wine since the 16th century! It’s a place that has always been connected to the land, once a mix of vineyards, orchards, and cherry groves. But as the world’s thirst for incredible wine has grown, more of those cherry trees have given way to vines. Still, I love that there’s a real commitment here to protecting the natural landscape of forests and valleys, even as they dream of one day seeing their best plots elevated to Premier Cru status.

A Land Shaped by Nature’s Embrace

When you look at Irancy from above, you see something truly special. The village and its vineyards are cradled in a natural amphitheater of hills. It’s this unique geography, opening up to the setting sun while being sheltered by the surrounding slopes, that creates a magical microclimate. I find it fascinating to think of these steep hillsides as shields, protecting the precious vines from the cold and the devastating frosts that have sadly hit other parts of Burgundy. And the soil—oh, the soil! It’s a beautiful mix of the same Kimmeridgian limestone you find in Chablis, blended with clay, creating a perfect foundation for wines with a distinct voice.

A Mosaic of ‘Climats’: Voices of the Vineyard

Within this natural embrace, every little corner has its own name and personality. These are the famous Burgundian ‘climats,’ and in Irancy, there are about a dozen that really shine. The most coveted plots are, of course, the ones facing south. You have gems like Mouroux, La Bergère, and Chérelle on the Mouroux hill, and others like Beaumonts and Mazelots. Then, closer to the Yonne river, you find Palotte and Veaupessiot, also basking in that southern sun.

What I find so captivating is how these climats, though so close to one another, tell completely different stories in the glass. Mouroux, with its warmer microclimate and higher clay content, tends to produce more muscular, full-bodied wines. In contrast, Palotte and Veaupessiot, with more limestone, give us something more elegant and fine. To put it in personal terms, a Veaupessiot feels delicate and saline, a whisper of its limestone soils. A Palotte is a bit more feisty, with more prominent tannins. And a Mouroux fills your palate with its density and power. It’s a perfect illustration of terroir in action.

The Secret Ingredient: Taming the César Grape

So, what makes an Irancy wine taste like an Irancy? For me, it comes down to two key traditions.

First is the touch of César. This local grape, allowed up to 10% in the blend, is Irancy’s secret weapon. It’s what sets it apart. But it’s a powerful grape, with robust tannins and sometimes high alcohol, so winemakers have to handle it with care. Interestingly, I’m seeing a new wave of producers, like William Charriat, who are also crafting 100% Pinot Noir versions from specific sites, like his Veaupessiot, for those looking for a softer, more direct expression of the grape.

The second tradition is patience. Historically, Irancy wines were aged for a long time—sometimes up to three years—to tame the fierce tannins of the César grape. But as the climate has warmed and grapes are ripening more fully, winemakers are starting to ask if that long wait is still necessary. It’s an evolution I’m excited to follow.

The New Guard: Producers to Watch

The energy in Irancy today is palpable, driven by a young generation of winemakers like Martin Charriat and the brothers Gabin and Félix Richoux. They are taking their family legacies to new heights.

• Domaine Richoux: This estate has a jewel of a plot in Palotte with vines planted back in 1937. Tasting their wines, you can feel the personality of each vintage and site. Their 2019 Veaupessiot, a 100% Pinot Noir, was a delight for me—all fresh cherries, floral notes, and silky tannins with a beautiful almond finish. It shows the sheer elegance Irancy is capable of.
• Domaine William Charriat: Here, you see the contrast between styles beautifully. His 2022 Veaupessiot, also 100% Pinot Noir, is the definition of elegance with pure fruit and a saline minerality that speaks directly of the limestone. Then you have his 2018 Palotte, from incredibly old vines planted in 1936 and including some César, which is a mature, generous, and spicy wine. For those with a cellar, his 2017 Mouroux, with its robust structure and notes of licorice, is a wine that promises to evolve beautifully with time.

Why You Should Be Drinking Irancy Wine

I believe Irancy is one of the most exciting regions in Burgundy right now. While Palotte might be its most famous climat, I find that the finesse and mineral spark of a well-made Veaupessiot, especially a 100% Pinot Noir, is often what steals my heart.

The secret is getting out. The growing popularity of Irancy isn’t just because of a few big names taking an interest; it’s because these wines offer an incredible quality-to-price ratio that is increasingly hard to find in Burgundy. Domaine Richoux’s story says it all: just a decade ago, they exported to two countries; now, it’s fifteen. That kind of growth doesn’t happen by accident.

So, I’ll leave you with this: the next time you’re searching for a red Burgundy that surprises and over-delivers, look for Irancy on the label. It’s a delicious intersection of deep history, a unique terroir, and the vibrant energy of a new generation. It’s a story of elegant Pinot Noir and its enigmatic partner, César, and I think it’s a story you’ll want to taste for yourself. Cheers!