Graham’s 80-Year-Old Tawny: A Toast to Time and a Family Legacy from the Heart of Port
By Richard Mayson
November 21, 2025
Imagine the excitement. The Symington family, those wizards of Port, have brought us a true gem. It’s the Graham’s 80-Year-Old Tawny, and it isn’t just a wine—it’s liquid history, newly born, though its roots run deep into the past. This is the first time a Tawny Port has reached this age, a category only just opened this year, and it’s already making history. The Symingtons have been on a tour, sharing this marvel across Europe.
A Tribute to Peter Symington: The Inspiration Behind the Wine
But this wine, my friends, has a soul. Behind every drop of this Graham’s, there’s a heartbeat, a family story that touches the heart. It is a tribute to Peter Symington, a quiet man, the kind who works wonders without making a fuss. Imagine, 45 harvests! He was the silent genius behind the Ports of Graham’s, Dow’s, and Warre’s. He was never one to boast, but his invention—the robotic stainless steel lagares that replicate human foot treading—was a game-changer for Port from 1998 onwards! By the time he retired in 2009, the majority of Vintage Port was already passing through his robotic “feet.” His vision grew the family’s production from 1,000 to 36,000 pipes. Incredible! And he did it all with a humility that makes you admire him even more.
The Creation of a Liquid Legacy
So, to celebrate Peter’s 80th birthday in 2024, his son Charles, who carries the fourth-generation legacy, ventured into the cellars. And this was no ordinary search. He was like a wine archaeologist, unearthing treasures hidden since 1941 and 1942—wartime years when no one could export! Those wines, forgotten but not abandoned, were kept with a care that now gifts us this wonder. Just think about the time involved: Charles calculates that 64% of those original wines simply evaporated! Time and the angels took their share, leaving us with a concentrated essence. That is why there are only 600 bottles of this Graham’s 80-Year-Old in the entire world, with a mere 76 allocated to the UK. It’s a liquid miracle. And like any great Tawny, the art of the blend has allowed it to transcend, becoming something greater than the sum of its parts while maintaining that vital freshness. It’s only the second of its kind on the market, joining the royalty of Tawnies! Anthony Symington, of the fifth generation, presented it in London alongside another new gem, the 40-Year-Old Tawny. And believe me, these wines speak for themselves!
Tasting Notes
Graham’s 80-Year-Old Tawny in My Glass
When I first saw it, I was captivated. A pale mahogany-tawny color, with an amber halo and those greenish glints that only great age can bestow. On the nose, what lift! It’s a delicate, high-toned, almost ethereal symphony. It invites you in with that irresistibly sweet-savory character of toffee, dried figs, freshly cracked walnuts, and a whisper of ground coffee that envelops you.
On the palate, it’s a glorious, silky caress. The caramelized fruit explodes with a marmalade-like richness, but it’s not heavy in the slightest! There’s an astonishing freshness that balances it, a gentle acidity that dances on the mid-palate and stretches into a long finish—so long it seems to never end! It is a seamless work of art, exquisitely fused by the passage of time and a master’s hand. And the best part? You don’t have to drink it all at once! Charles Symington, the magician himself, tells us we can savor it for up to eight weeks after opening, thanks to its long journey in the barrels of Graham’s cool cellars. It is the quintessence of Tawny Port, the absolute pinnacle. Fabulous!
Verdict: 99/100
And the Graham’s 40-Year-Old Tawny… Happiness in a Glass!
We also tasted its sibling, the 40-Year-Old Tawny. Imagine, it’s based on a 1982 colheita, a year that some even preferred to ’83. A pale brick-red color, with that amber-gold rim and greenish reflections. The nose is so complex and effusive! A delicate spicy touch, with aromas that remind me of Brazil nuts, the creamiest milk chocolate, raisins, and sultanas. Mellifluous, sweet like honey. Just like its older brother, this is impeccable from start to finish, with a long, delicate, and refreshing finish. It is opulent, yes, with that classic Graham’s style, but with a balance and poise that leave you speechless. Anthony Symington, from the fifth generation, calls it “happiness in a glass.” And honestly, who am I to argue?
Verdict: 96/100
